A month in Portugal - Part 4 Conclusions & Recommendations.

A list of suggestions, names, resources for anyone looking to visit, relocate or invest in Portugal

Thanks for reading the first three posts on our visit to Portugal, hope you enjoyed the commentary and photos. This final section will focus on specific suggestions and resources for each of the three regions we visited, as well as the country as a whole. Some of these are findings from our own travel group, others are recommendations from people we met - worked with along the way. We will credit everyone who contributed to these lists and provide as many links and as much contact information as possible. Again, anyone we recommend - mention here is strictly our personal opinion, we received no compensation or payment of any kind for mentioning them.

Overview - 10 general comments - conclusions about Portugal;

1. Portuguese people almost universally are friendly and kind. It’s a quiet, peaceful, non-violent society. Of course there’s always exceptions but if you aren’t being well treated here, you are doing something very rude-wrong.

2. Things more at a slower pace than in the U.S. (or many other countries). If you want fast food-fast service, you’ve come to the wrong place.

3. The climate varies greatly, from wet - cold (more so in the north) to warm and sunny (more so in the south). It’s nice weather overall but not a tropical paradise (more on weather below).

4. English is widely spoken; especially among people under 40 and in the major cities many people are fluent. It’s taught in schools at a very early age and part of the culture. Obviously as in any country you should learn a few polite words of the local language, but you can function quite well with English in most of the places you are likely to visit. One small but important cultural thing we learned, DON’T try to use Spanish as a substitute for Portuguese, people don’t appreciate it! There’s complex reasons for this, but we found it to be universally true everywhere, with every local we met. If you are a native Spanish speaker that’s different but if it isn’t your first language, begin with a few polite words of Portuguese and then speak English.

5. Infrastructure is generally excellent. The major cities have excellent metro systems - buses, the inter-city trains are clean and efficient. Highways (outside of major cities at rush hour) have very little traffic and are a pleasure to drive on. Things generally work well here.

6. Healthcare is overall a major benefit of moving here, at least from what we were told coming from the non-functional U.S healthcare system. If you have a resident visa (or even are a visitor with an emergency) you are eligible for the public hospitals - healthcare system at little or no cost (no deductibles, uncovered procedures, co-pays, or all the other USA BS foisted on you by the drug and insurance companies that bought off Congress years ago). For minimal cost, you can purchase private insurance and buy into the private system too. These are the basics we learned but we didn’t delve into the specifics and healthcare anywhere is complicated and really important, so do your own research before re-locating to Portugal (or anywhere!).

7. The U.S. dollar goes a long way in Portugal. People don’t earn big salaries, it’s not a wealthy society (there is a robust social safety net, everyone has health care, education, a place to live, food, etc.). The cost of living is high on Portuguese salaries but low if you are using U.S. dollars and make a decent salary in the U.S.

8. Real estate varies greatly from region to region in terms of cost and style. Many older homes have limited insulation and little or no heat-A/C. Prices overall are usually less than comparable properties in comparable U.S. cities but you can find anything from $100,000 condos to $10,000,000 estates here too. The process for purchasing real estate is VERY different than the way it works in the U.S. Too long to detail here, suffice it to say an honest, capable attorney is absolute must (we list one good option we found below).

9. This should be obvious but stunning how many people move somewhere after reading about it and/or visiting for a nice vacation and find actually living there is a totally different experience. Portugal is a small, easy to navigate country. Far, far, FAR better to check out different cities - regions over the course of several months before making a final decision and certainly before buying a home or making any other major investment.

10. “The ability to speak several languages is an asset, but sometimes the ability to keep your mouth shut in any language is priceless” - good advice anywhere in the world :)

One other thing… A LOT of people are relocating from the U.S. to Portugal (as you can read here among other publications, Welcome to Portugal, the new expat haven) so if you have any interest, the time to act is well upon you…

Suggestions & Resources - Lisbon and central region;

For Vacations…

DO visit the central - tourist areas of Lisbon (Barrio Alto, Alfama, Principe Real, etc.), they are vibrant, historic, safe, and fun. BUT you can save time and $ avoiding a few of the really famous touristic things like Belem Tower (wait an hour in line and not much to see inside), and the stupid famous place nearby for the Pastel de Nata pastries that’s no better than 50 others in the city, but with a long line outside. Castelo de S. Jorge is nice enough but just as good views in 10 other nearby spots without an hour wait and 10e admission (if you want a better and free castle, go to Setubal across the bay). Sintra is amazing, you really need at least 1 full day there, don’t try to go on one of those 4 hour tours, you’ll see nothing. Cascais is lovely, but over 1 hour away and basically a high-end beach resort town. The view of the city from the top of Parque Eduardo VII in is Lisbon sublime, and the park is pretty and in a nice area to walk around. One restaurant in the touristic center but a little hidden from the crowds is called A Gina, truly a gem. Local vibe, great food, wonderful friendly service.

There’s a TON to see if you are willing to drive an hour or so out of the city;

Setubal is a great fishing city south of Lisbon, the castle there is free and great (amazing tilework in the little chapel). Working class, un-pretentious, real. The Serra da Arrábida wine country and the ocean around Setubal including the towns of Azeitao, Alcochete, Vila Nogueira, Sesimbra are accessable and well worth a visit.

To the north of Lisbon, Mafra is a lovely old city on a hill with a ton of history. The National Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built in baroque style, inspired Portuguese Nobel Prize laureate José Saramago to write his novel Baltasar and Blimunda. The palace grounds are stunning, the town center in front of the palace is beautiful and historic.

The ocean north of Lisbon is wild and beautiful. Peniche, a little town on a tiny peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic ocean is nice and just north of there is the real gem of the coast, Baleal Island, known for surfing, with a tiny cluster of beautiful houses, a couple of cafes-restaurants, and an absolutely stunning beach.

Andre Antunes the owner of Nomad Inspiration, was a terrific guide. We hired him for private day tours and he was friendly, responsive, comfortable modern vehicle, made everything easy and fun.

For people looking to relocate to or invest in the Lisbon area (or anywhere in Portugal really);

Begin by getting your N.I.F number and opening a bank account, without that you can’t do anything. Then hire someone really capable to show you the non-touristic parts of Lisbon and nearby towns where people really live and get introduced to a good local attorney.

For the NIF number - bank account Bordr, created by expats from U.S. Richard & Kathleen Lo does a great, efficient job.

For showing you where to live (and finding you an apartment, and getting everything in order for your arrival, like setting up utilities, etc.) Barbara Monteiro and her company Liveasylisbon (Barbara.monteiro@liveasylisbon.com, 351-967125699) is an absolute gem (she can help you with the NIF # and bank accounts also). I cannot recommend her strongly enough, she’s just a wonderful, kind, caring, helpful person who knows Lisbon inside and out.

For the local attorney Barbara introduced us to Daniel dos Reis of the Reis Pellicano International Law Firm in Lisbon. I had an online meeting with Daniel prior to our arrival in Portugal and found him very responsive and knowledgeable and he offered to meet with our entire group in person to discuss Visa options for Portugal and information on the legalities of purchasing real estate in the country.

With her kind permission, I am sharing some of Barbara’s comments on good neighborhoods for people re-locating to Lisbon to consider…

OEIRAS: This municipality is considered very desirable for families: properties in Oeiras are incredibly sought-after and it is not difficult to see why. It is conveniently located between the metropolitan center of Lisbon and the coastal municipality of Cascais, and is a popular housing area for commuters and tourists with second homes. Oeiras has managed to establish its own lifestyle and attractions: shopping centers, schools, hospitals and good public transport connections. In addition, Oeiras has the highest GDP in Portugal and is a hub for business parks and innovative technology companies: Google, Amazon and two Portuguese TV stations have their headquarters here. Oeiras properties are well served by hospitals, police stations and fire stations. Its division into village-like communities gives it a familiar and welcoming feel, ensuring that local conveniences are always within easy reach. In terms of culture in Oeiras, the Parque dos Poetas is dedicated to some of the greatest Portuguese poets. You will also find here the Templo da Poesia, a building that regularly hosts cultural events. The Oeiras Park is a great option for shopping, with its more than 150 stores and cinema. Here you will find everything you may need. The town has a wide variety of gyms and health clubs to choose from, or if you like golf, you have the opportunity to practice at Orizonte Golf. The Sintra Natural Park is also a short drive away, offering hiking trails and hidden beaches.

CAMPO DE OURIQUE E ESTRELA: Campo de Ourique and Estrela are two traditional neighborhoods of Lisbon that are in one of the highest regions of the city, a little away from the most famous neighborhoods. With a local atmosphere, they are neighborhoods with interesting attractions to get to know Lisbon. Campo de Ourique is a busy and characteristic neighborhood of Lisbon. It is located between Amoreiras, Estrela and Prazeres, and is known for being a residential neighborhood, but with a very strong and old vocation for commerce, since it is a neighborhood with a life of its own. The neighborhood is often compared to a small town within Greater Lisbon, and it is one of the few that still has the best living conditions, unlike other areas of Lisbon. Campo de Ourique Heritage includes a Igreja do Santo Condestável, the neighborhood 's calling card, designed by Vasco Regaleira. Visit the Campo de Ourique Market in Lisbon, a place full of charm and with many options of stalls to eat at any time of the day. This area is the second most exclusive in Lisbon, chosen as a place to live by upper-middle class families with higher incomes. The Estrela area is one of the most central parts of Lisbon, located in the heart of the city. It is in this zone that is located namely the Assembly of the Republic and the S. Bento Palace, official residence of the Prime Minister. It is naturally an area where there are many historical buildings of great patrimonial value.

ARROIOS: A Portuguese parish in the municipality of Lisbon, which belongs to the Central Zone of the capital. With an area of 2.13 km² and about 40 thousand inhabitants, the neighborhood is a residential area that brings together many workers and is the place of passage for tourists because of its strategic location, since it cuts across two important avenues of the city: Avenida Pascoal de Melo and Avenida Almirante Reis. Those who live in Arroios have access to quality public transportation that provides easy access to other parts of the city, such as the green line of the subway. In its structure, the neighborhood has wide streets and several residential buildings. And for those who like to buy fresh produce, it is possible to find in the neighborhood the Arroios Market, a great place to find fishmongers, florists, and horticulturists. In addition, the largest neighborhood in the heart of Lisbon is ideal because it is possible to get there quickly by foot.

BENFICA: Good, beautiful and most affordable, Benfica is located north of Lisbon, just north of Belém, Ajuda and Alcântara. It is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Lisbon and used to be very family friendly until it started attracting many young people thanks to its affordable rental prices. Benfica is also an extremely safe place, with many supermarkets and green areas. Benfica is home to the huge Monsanto Forest Park, so when you want to go out for a run, this is the place to be! Benfica is located in the northern part of the capital and is one of the greenest neighborhoods in Lisbon. It has direct access to the Segunda Circular, to the CRIL (Lisbon Inner Regional Ring Road) and to the IC19. It also has a train and subway station, and crosses several bus routes. If gym is a priority, the Benfica area has a Fitness Hut, a low-cost gym, next to the Fonte Nova shopping center, with a monthly fee starting at 6.60€ per week. With access to all transportation in the Benfica neighborhood, you can visit the city center and see some of the main monuments - most are within 15 minutes. There are many nice and affordable restaurants and cafes within walking distance.

Suggestions & Resources - Porto & the north;

For Vacations…

Porto is an absolute gem of a city, incredible architecture, walkable city, great friendly people. The touristic center has most of the beautiful buildings and is a must see, at least 2 full days to even scratch the surface, but be warned it’s totally overrun with tourists. Tee shirt shops litter the streets, which are filled with huge tour buses that make them almost impassable for cars and difficult to walk in at times. Better to stay just outside the center city (walking distance to everything) in Baixa, Bonfim, or the areas around Rua Miguel Bombarda (a street of art galleries). Another excellent option is The Foz (Rivermouth), a wonderful area about 15-20 minutes by tram or UBER to center city. Finally, be sure to cross the Douro river to see the city from the other side and explore all the Port Wine tasting rooms. The view of Porto from across the river is beyond belief, really. The apartment for our stay in Porto is owned by Hugo +351 96 002 7281 (TOC TOC Yellow in Porto´s heart on Air BnB), a small studio he purchased specifically as a rental in the absolute center of historic - touristic Porto (which as above has its plusses and minuses). They are in the process of developing a rental home in the Douro valley that will be a high end luxury rental. Based on our experience here can highly recommend this apartment and anything else he’s managing in the Douro. Perhaps our favorite restaurant in all of Portugal is Raiz , right in center city, great modern Portuguese food, beautiful casual setting and totally friendly staff. An absolute must! Our friends Richard and Kathleen Lo of Bordr, visit Porto frequently and with their kind permission here’s some of their recommendations;

• Eats

  • Epoca - incredible vegetarian food, only open for breakfast and lunch

  • Lareira - Baixa - Get the pernil sandwich with Portuguese cheese. White sangria is great too. This spot is much better than Casa Guedes (popular with tourists)

  • Mantegeria - our favorite place for pastel de nata. They have locations in Lisbon too 

  • Confeitaria Chicana - a humble local bakery. You have to try their brioche croissants

  • Masseira - good spot for sourdough bread

  • Grilled fish is one of the best things to eat in Portugal. Pires Restaurante is a good local joint, but is a bit far out in Matosinhos.

  • Gelataria Portuense - best gelato in Porto.

  • Mito - great lunch menu

  Things to do (we did all of these and concur with their suggestions);

  • Check out the tiles at the São Bento Station

  • See the main plaza

  • Walk around the Cedofeita area

  • Walk across the Dom Luis Bridge, and check out the view from Jardim do Morro and Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar

  • Jardins do Palácio de Cristal - nice gardens and views of the river

  • Spend half a day in Gaia (the city across the river), visit a Port wine cellar. Last year, we visited Cockburn's Port Lodge, but Google Maps says they’re temporarily closed. Some other popular brands are Taylor’s and Graham's

Beyond Porto the famous Douro Valley wine country may be a touristic thing but it’s also a total must see. The valley is stunning, magical. Take a boat ride down the river, drive to the authentic little wine town of Ervedosa Do Douro, then visit two famous wineries, Croft Vineyards and Quinta Da Pacheca, both with settings - views that look almost surreal they are so perfect. This is a remote area, with a lot of very harsh weather, not a place to live in but an absolute must (along with the city of Porto) for any visit to Portugal.

Braga is a treasure; an absolutely beautiful medium sized city in the northern interior of the country. The weather in this part of the country is frequently cold and wet and Braga is a bit isolated from other major cities, but it’s an ideal day trip from Porto (just over 1 hour pretty, easy drive) and plenty to see there for a multi-day visit. During good weather (usually May-September) the northern interior of Portugal is beautiful and historic, a lot to offer.

For people looking to relocate to or invest in the Porto area;

First, remember the weather here is considerably wetter and cooler than in Lisbon or the Algarve. May-September is usually sunny and warm (but generally not too hot), the rest of the year is frequently damp and cloudy. We were told Porto gets as much rain annually as London, but it all comes in the winter months. If you like Seattle weather you’ll do fine here.

As far as a place to live - invest in, Porto is booming with people moving here, prices have gone through the roof in recent years. Still it’s quite affordable by U.S.A. standards. As above, the touristic heart of Porto is definitely NOT the place to live, too crowded and intense (unless you love constant noise and streets clogged with tour buses). But there are a number of very pleasant, livable areas in and around downtown (Porto is a relatively small city).

The areas around Palácio de Cristal and the Rua Miguel Bombarda (a street of art galleries) and Rua de Cedofeita (pedestrian street) are pleasant, urban areas an easy 5-10 minute walk to center city. Baixa and Bonfim (around Rua Duque de Saldanha, the main street of shopping-stores) are very nice, high-end neighborhoods.

The nicest place to live (and the most expensive) is Foz, about 15-20 minutes from center Porto, where a lot of ex-pats and upper class locals live. It’s where the Douro river meets the ocean, has a wonderful old center (Foz Velha) and an amazing river-ocean promenade with the Jardim do Passeio Alegre (park). There’s a more modern area of Foz by the ocean where most of the shopping is that’s also really nice.

The city adjoining Foz is called Matosinhos Sul, high rises like Miami Beach but still a nice place to live on the ocean, with the Matosinhos fish market, a lot of good restaurants and cafes. There’s a huge park between Foz and Matosinhos Sul called Parque de Cidade with access from both cities.

Porto is known to have a unique history, people in this region are especially proud of their city, and also known for being exceptionally friendly (even for Portugal which is known for friendly people everywhere). If you don’t mind cooler, wetter weather and being a little isolated from the center - south of Portugal (remember there’s good transportation almost everywhere in Portugal, it’s a small country with excellent infrastructure, so it’s not too isolated) , Porto has a lot to offer. Many people from Briton live here because of their long history with Port wine, so it’s in some ways a somewhat ‘English’ city. Bottom line, there are a LOT of worse places to live in the world :)

Briefly as above, Braga (about an hour north east of Porto) is a really nice small - medium sized city. We were only there for a day, but if you didn’t mind a smaller city and a quiet lifestyle and the iffy weather didn’t phase you, could easily see how someone could enjoy living there at a fraction of the cost of living in Porto or Lisbon.

Suggestions & Resources - The Algarve & the south;

For Vacations…

This is THE region of Portugal for summertime vacations, people flock here from all over Europe (and elsewhere but especially northern European countries) from May - September. We visited in April and it was already not exactly empty and were told repeatedly by locals that July and August are ‘a madhouse’, ‘impossible’, etc. The region varies greatly from town to town, one spot can be ‘party central’ and 10 minutes away can be a (relatively) less intense experience. As a rule go just 5 miles from the ocean and it’s low-key pretty countryside with some very pleasant small cities, of course then you are talking about a 10-15 drive to the beach. Really it comes down to what you are looking for.

As far as weather, from May - October you are virtually guaranteed all sunny days with temperatures ranging from 70’s - 90’s in the day and usually cooling off considerably at night. It can be pleasantly warm or boiling heat. November - April is very variable, can be 75 and brilliant sunshine or 45 and pouring rain and shivering cold. Yes, it’s the warmest winter spot in continental Europe but it’s NOT Florida or the Canary Islands, think South Carolina in Dec. and you’ll have the idea.

Here’s some towns mentioned in Part 3 and what they offer in terms of a vacation;

Party towns (west to east); Lagos, Albufeira, Armacao de Pera and Portimao. You are talking high rise buildings, noise morning ‘till night, mobbed beaches, jammed restaurants, hordes of pasty tourists from Briton, Germany and Spain drinking 24 hours a day. Nothing authentic, the only Portuguese people are here to make a living servicing tourists. If Daytona Beach or Padre Island at spring break is your idea of a vacation, these will be perfect for you.

Fun vacation towns (west to east); Alvor, Ferragudo, Carvoeiro . Plenty of tourism, plenty of fun and drinking and partying here too in summer months, but more low -key, pretty smaller towns that retain some Portuguese flavor and charm.

Quiet(er) towns (west to east); Salema, Burgau, Praia da Luz, Santa Luzia, Tavira. Tourism here too but much more low key, a mixture of locals - expats living here day to day with some tourist services (condo rentals, restaurants). Nice beaches, relaxed, some fun stuff to do but not a lot going on in the summer and very quiet in the off season. Tavira is much bigger and a lot more going on than any of the others on this list of quieter places, it’s a real city geographically isolated from the rest of the Algarve right near the Spanish border. We found it peaceful and beautiful but very quiet on our visit in April, not sure just how busy it gets in the summer. Here’s a link to cultural activities from Tavira Town Hall - Events. The main beach area in Tavira is called Praia da Ilha de Tavira, which is a really pretty, wide strand of white sand beach on ‘Tavira's island’ and a little further Fuzeta's island is also really nice. Moving a bit further afield in the area, Serra Cachopo is a little village in the mountains https://tavira.algarvetouristguide.com/municipality/cachopo and Alcoutim Village is on the Guadiana river with a peaceful beach (on the other side of the river is San Lucas, Spain). You can go to Alcoutim by boat in Tavira from Vila Real de Sto António.

Non - beach towns (west to east); If you don’t need to be right on the beach for your vacation, 10-15 minutes north of the Ocean puts you out of the summer madness, in mostly unspoiled countryside with hills, fig and almond and avocado trees, vineyards, and some lovely older small cities. Silves, with a beautiful castle on the hilltop and a pleasant old downtown, and Loule, a city with a historic, vibrant downtown just west of Faro, stood out for us, but there’s many others to explore. Faro is the capital and largest city in the entire Algarve, it’s where the international airport is, there’s a large shopping mall with outlet stores, a major university, a lot of the services you’d expect in a big(er) city. It’s not particularly pretty or charming (although there’s a nice enough downtown), not really a place for a vacation but provides key local services, is where many locals live and work, and isn’t a bad place at all

We found Antonio Bule of South Explorers , a guide who some people have told us is known as ‘Mr. Algarve’ to be knowledgeable and capable. Speaks perfect English (among many other languages) and is a likable person who is a pleasure to spend time with. Can happily recommend him 100% with no reservations. Antonio Bule - Southexplorers; +351964331497 www.southexplorers.pt, info@southexplorers.pt. He knows a lot of other locals and probably could point you towards some good rentals, restaurants, local sights, etc.

For people looking to relocate to or invest in the Algarve;

You won’t have any trouble finding other ex-pats here, literally tens of thousands of Brits, Germans, people from other colder northern European countries and increasingly the U.S. have re-located here, including a huge number of retirees. Plenty of good reasons why because the area has much to offer; (relatively) warm winters, low key lifestyle (if you avoid the main party towns) with things to do, good services, good roads, good healthcare, good food, a variety of different cities in a compact region. That said, it’s overrun by tourism in the summer and all that implies. It’s less ‘authentic’ and friendly than the rest of Portugal (Portuguese people are really nice everywhere, it’s part of what makes the country so appealing, but even they probably get a bit tired of servicing a lot of frequently crass, low-life tourists all summer).

After a LOT of research if I (and most of the group of friends - clients I was hosting through this process) was looking to live in Portugal, I’d probably prefer Lisbon or something nearby, or Porto if I was willing to accept a lot more cool, rainy weather, but that’s personal taste. If you like the Algarve I’d strongly suggest looking closely at the non - beach cities listed just above in mostly unspoiled countryside; Silves and Loule for starters, probably some others we didn’t see on our visit. Salema, Burgau, Praia da Luz, Santa Luzia and Tavira are all very nice beach towns that aren’t ruined by tourism, you could do worse than live in any of them. Alvor, Ferragudo, Carvoeiro are all right near the services of Portimao, that means there’s also going to be a lot of traffic and touristic stuff in the summer, but all three are very pretty small towns with nice beaches and attractive, walkable downtowns.

AFPOP, the largest Association for foreign residents & property owners in Portugal since 1987, is located in Portimao. The non-profit organization offers a wide range of services, help with various issues, recommendations, social events, etc. Well worth checking out for anyone thinking of relocating to Portugal, especially the Algarve.

This is intended to be a resource for people looking to visit, invest in, or move to Portugal. It took me many months of research before our visit to learn about this wonderful country; during the trip I realized just how many people are planning the same kind of journey and thought a chronology of our experiences might be useful. Seeing these posts viewed by thousands of people made me realize how much interest there is in this country, as well as how much concern there is from very sober, thoughtful people about the stability of our own country (sadly). Your comments are not only welcome, they are a gift to other readers and a key reason for writing this. I hope this will be a forum for opinion and commentary not only on these posts about Portugal, but about the state of the challenging world we are all living in and how we can better navigate it together.

H. Robb Levinsky